How to catch Moreton Bay Snapper

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Category: Fishing Tricks

Published on Saturday, 27 August 2011 17:09

Written by KC

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For the larger sized snapper (10 Kilo and over) in Moreton Bay I use a floater rig it consists of a set of 5/0 ganged hooks rigged on a swivel to minimise line twist and allow the bait to move as freely as possible. (And yes, they are there still, but very few people fish for them).

The set up consists of two 5/0 Mustad 4202D hooks on the bottom with a 5/0 Mustad 9175 on the top using a #6 or #8 black barrel swivel to finish the rig.

The 9175 is a short shank hook that, when linked with the swivel is about the same length as a standard gang hook without the swivel, so the rig is no more obvious than a standard three hook gang, but is much more flexible. The 9175 is also a straight shank hook so it does not spin as much when baits are rigged. (I actually use a 4200D but bend the shank the same as a 4202D as I think they hold better in a gang).

This rig is tied to a ‘spider hitch’ double about 70cm long. A sinker can be added to this rig later when the current picks up by using a sinker clip above the double knot. The knot also acts to stop the sinker from sliding all the way down to the hooks.

A good tip is the use of a “quick change” sinker clip. These are a simple yet brilliant idea that allows you to add a sinker clip to your main line without having to remove your rig, when attached you can alter the size of the sinker to suit the conditions as often as the need arises and to do so in seconds. The stainless steel sinker clip adds no resistance to the line allowing it to run freely and the fish detects little resistance, which is important when fishing for these fish.

The rig is then baited with a whole pilchard and run on a 10kg line. No leader, the double is your leader and it adds more security with no extra visibility.

Floating is a term in this text that is a little contradictory. There are basically two ways to use this rig.

Method 1: Is to drop the sinker but hold onto the bait until the sinker gets to the bottom, or close to it. Then release the baited hooks into the water and it will float down with the current. This allows the bait to ‘swim’ down and look more natural as it enters the strike zone.

Method 2: Is to hold the sinker and allow the bait to drift out the back of the boat in the current, then drop the sinker and free spool it to the bottom. The rate you control that free spool will determine the speed that your bait will float to the bottom. This rig usually leaves you with an extra long trace on the bottom allowing free movement of the bait.

Allow the bait to take line and leave the line slack on the top of the water if possible. You will notice the loose line twitch when a fish first takes the bait. Refrain from jerking or striking at this point. Most big fish are lost at this stage. You need to hook the fish in the corner of the mouth as it moves away from you, so you are setting the hook firmly in the back of the jaw, rather than having the fish looking at you and only hold it on its crusher plates or harder areas of the mouth.

So how do you know when it is facing away from you?

That’s easy…... It will start to take line. If it was swimming at you the line would go slack.

As you see the loose line on top of the water start to tighten up, I usually lower the rod tip and follow the line then lift the rod tip and allow the fish to set the hook. Then it is just a matter of keeping it away from structure until you get it to the boat.

This method usually hooks the fish on the top hook I have noticed, and my PB inside Moreton Bay to date is 11.75kg, caught in October (for those interested, my larger fish are always around October) 

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