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Rod Building 

   CUSTOM BUILDING YOUR OWN ROD

First select the type of blank to use (see footnote below)

After selecting the right blank for the style and application that you want, be it a slow tapered rod for bream or whiting, a multi tapered rod for squire, bream and lure casting, fast taper for jigging, trolling etc. What ever your choice of blanks, the first thing you should do is locate the blanks "backbone" or spine. This can be done several ways, the best way I find is to hold the tip of the blank across the palm of one hand and apply pressure to the mid section of the blank with the other hand, rotating the blank slowly as you do this. Apply enough pressure to bend the blank to its desired action or what is called "a working curve". In other words if you have a rod you are building for 10kg class, it would be silly to only apply enough pressure that would apply to a 2kg line, or enough for a 24kg class. Make sure the butt section of the rod has an even surface with no nicks or chips and the floor or platform you have the rod resting on is a smooth and hard surface. This test can be done in a vertical position by placing a section of board, rod blank or any suitable hard, smooth, straight section of anything to roll the rod butt along. As you rotate the rod you may find it will flick, or tend to lock in one position more than others (not all rods have prominent backbones, and some have two or more). This is the backbone and should be marked so that the set up can be done. Simply apply a band of masking tape to the mid section of the rod and mark the inner section of the curve. This is the side you would put your guides if you want to use a threadline, or side cast reel. The other side, or outer curve is where your guides would go if your want an overhead, or drum reel set up.

Locate the position of the winch mount or reel seat.

Remember this is a custom rod (tailored for your needs) so does not have to be the same as any other rod. Having said that, different reels need to be set at different heights due to the nature of their application. For example, a side cast reel, (Like an Alvey) needs to be near the butt section so you can hold the line with your lower hand when casting. While a threadline, (or egg beater, as they're affectionately known) needs to be much higher because the line is held by your upper hand when casting (as does the overhead reel). When testing reel location here are some average locations for different reels.
Sidecast- 100-250mm (not fly rods)
Threadline- 200-500mm
Overhead- 300-550mm

Hold the reel in the approximate area suggested, and see how it feels. You may prefer it higher or lower, now is the time to choose. (remember it is being custom built for you, so make it as comfortable for your needs). Once you have located the correct position for you, mark the rod with a piece of masking tape or marking pen. Measure the length of rear grip needed and it's diameter. Be sure to order a diameter lower than the measurement you have. The hypalon must be forced or stretched on, otherwise it will loosen up after a while. Eg . 5/8" measurement. - order 1/2" hypalon. (sizes of hypalon are still in imperial measurements). If in doubt take your blank along to the tackle store and ask the staff to give you the correct components.
Always seek out a good reputable store that knows what they are talking about. Preferably one that does rod building and has a large selection of components to choose from. Eg light , medium and heavy guides (not just a choice of one type, or the ones they wish to sell you).

Before gluing the butt grip, winch mount, and fore grip in place, the blank must be "keyed" in areas to be glued. This can be done by scraping the blank with a knife or sandpaper, to roughen up the surface so the glue gets a good bond. If this is not done the hypalon, duralon or other type of grip can break loose with pressure. OK, now the blank is keyed we are ready for glueing. Only super strength or 24hr araldite (or equivalent) should be used for this task. Firstly it allows enough time to position the grips and align the winch mount with the backbone (fixed hood should be on the side with the guides) and secondly because of it's super strength. Excess glue can be cleaned up with a clean rag and acetone or white spirits. To allow the hypalon to slide easily down the blank you can soak the inside of the hypalon with acetone, this can be done by placing your finger over one end of the hyplaon (to seal it) and pour acetone into to opposite end. Allow 20 or 30 seconds for the hypalon to soak, then pour out the acetone, and slide the hypalon down the blank. Wipe off the excess glue and position the grip. Measure the internal diameter of the winch mount that you intend using, then apply several bands of half inch masking tape (usually three or four bands) to build up to this diameter leaving the blank in between exposed so the glue can bond it. Check to see that your reel mount will fit snugly over these bands, then glue in position. (Remember, these areas must be keyed to avoid slippage). Glue the foregrip into position the same way as was done with the lower grip. Now align the fixed hood of the winch mount with the backbone setting.

Fit the tip runner.

If a pipe tip is used, then all you have to do is key the tip section and apply 5min araldite (tips are glued with a quick set glue) and slide on the tip (it should fit snuggly). Align the tip with fixed hood of the winch mount, both should be on the backbone (or opposite) depending on reel choice, as explained earlier. The rod should be left for the glue to set for at least 24 hours before next steps are taken.

Setting out the guides.

The first guide to position is the stripping runner(or first guide from the winch mount). The approximate position to start with is half way from the tip to winch mount. Fix this guide in place with bands of masking tape. Put the reel you intend using on the rod and feed the line through the stripping guide, then feed on the next guides in reducing size. Eg. If you have a 25 stripping guide then the next runner would be 20 next 16 and so on, you will have seven or eight guides for the average overhead rod.

For the next step it's handy to have an assistant or jig to hold the rod.

Set the rod to a working curve. Move and adjust the rest of the guides so the line clears the blank, but follows the same line as the blank, and the gap between the line and blank are equal for each guide. Thus using the blank to it's full potential. You may have to adjust the positions several times before you are satisfied. Unload the pressure on the rod and mark the positions of the guides equally beside each foot of the guide. The rod is now ready for binding. Remove the taped guides and start your underbind. It's best to use a thinner thread for the underbind than the overbind . I usually use "A" thread for the underbind and "C" for the overbind. For a rough beach rod you might use "C' then "D" (But this will give a rough appearance). If you must use the same for both then make sure you burnish the thread so the line on top does not bury onto the lower thread. To start the bind, simply tape the end of the thread to the blank about 50mm in the direction you wish to bind (eg. if you are binding to the right to the left the tag end will be 50mm from the starting point of your bind to the right). Now simply make awide spiral around the blank down to where you wish to start to bind. When you get to this point change your angle from your wide spiral (about 45 degrees) to a tight 90 degrees or right angle from the rod, and bind back over your spiral keeping tension on the thread for at leat 4 to 5 turns. Then simply release tag end from the tape and cut off near main wrap. Proceede up the blank keeping tension on the thread at all times. (the angle of the thread when bind is about 88 degrees, or just off right angle to the rod) when you are about 3mm or eight turns from the end of your bind it's time to introduce your pull through(or whipping thread). To tie off or whip the bind, simply cut a piece of thread ("C" thread not "A") about 300mm long and bend in half. Slip the loop under your thread, with the loop in the direction you are heading. Then continue your bind up the thread until you reach where you intend to finish. Place your free hand on the last few wraps and hold pressure on the bind while you cut the main thread. (Leave about 40mm of thread hanging free.) Place this loose thread through your whipping loop and pull through so that the loose end of your wrap is pulled under the last few turns of your main wrap thus securing the bind. Then carefully trim the loose end back to the bind (a pair of nail clippers is perfect for this job). This is called whipping.

After completing your underbind it's time to reposition the guide you intend to bind, using making tape on one foot only. Leaving the other foot free to be bound. Always work from the outside in towards the guide so that you can run up the foot of the guide (the foot of the guide can be filed down to reduce this step up). Starting and finishing is as previously described. When positioning your guides for binding try to keep them as straight as possible in line with the winch and tip. I usually start with the stripping guide and work up the rod. After binding the guides on the blank check to see if they are in line by sighting down the blank, if they are not, adjust them now.

Apply the filler.

It's best to use filler for several reasons.
a) to preserve the colour and prevent "bleeding".
b) to eliminate gaps, air pockets and seal the thread so it does not soak up the rod finish or epoxy. When using "NCP" (no colour preserver) thread it is best to use a filler. (Follow the directions on the bottles, which may differ from product to product). After drying time has been allowed, you may apply the finishing coat of epoxy (2 part pack) or speed varnish.(1 part). The 2 Part epoxy will give you a tougher and, in my opinion a better finish, but it will take longer to dry.(Again, Just follow the directions on the pack.)
 
K.C.

Footnote

Most fisherman, (sorry fisher persons) can select a rod straight off the rack that is perfect for their particular use. And for the vast majority of people that is the best way to go, well at least until you have fished enough to know what it is that you want from a rod.

There are four main categories in which rods fall, and they are.

1) Off the rack, ( Factory made.)
2) Hand crafted ( Made by a rod builder, but sold off the rack, or pre-fabricated).
3) Custom built ( Built to your specific requirements for you by a rod builder )
4) Home built, "or roll your own", as we say.